Smitten by Stone: Falling in Love All Over Again in the Southwest
After landing, we picked up our rental car, a Chevy Tahoe, wisely chosen by my husband for its four-wheel drive and generous ground clearance. I would come to deeply appreciate this decision as our route led us through canyons, down dirt roads, up rocky trails, and into the heart of some truly wild country.
Our next stop was Moab, Utah. Let me just say, there are no mediocre views on the way to Moab. The dry, cracked earth stretched for miles like the sun-scorched skin of some ancient being. Dry creek beds snaked through the land like veins, waiting for rain to bring them to life again. As we neared town, the famous red rock formations began to rise like towers in the distance, and our hearts raced, we were close.
When we arrived, the thermometer read a very warm 101 degrees, a far cry from the rainy mid-60s we’d left behind in Pennsylvania. Still, we couldn’t wait to explore our first national park: Arches.
After snapping a photo at the iconic entrance sign, we entered a world that felt unearthly. No photo can do Arches justice, and I fear my words will fall short, too. I was stunned into silence. Weathered formations of deep red stone rose around us like a forgotten civilization; massive cathedrals, sleeping giants, watchful guards. It felt like cloud watching with rocks: one moment a galloping horse, the next a fire-breathing dragon. Nature’s imagination had sculpted castles, windows, soldiers, and, of course, the iconic arches.
We hiked to several major formations, including Delicate Arch, Balanced Rock, The Windows, Double Arch, and Devil’s Garden. When the heat finally became unbearable, we cooled off by taking a drive along Utah State Route 128, also known as the Scenic Highway or River Road. This winding route follows the Colorado River and cuts through a red rock canyon so picturesque, it felt like driving through a living postcard. The La Sal Mountains loomed in the distance, completing a view that will stay with me forever. It was difficult not to stop every few feet to try and capture its beauty.
Back in Moab, we relied on the advice of locals to find good food, which by the way is always the best travel tip. Their recommendation? Gloria’s Corner Café. It was so good, we returned each night. For morning coffee and conversation, we found a quirky spot called the Love Muffin Café, where we learned about the local obsession with Bedrock Sandals. This outdoor adventure footwear features a nylon strapped upper and rugged Vibram soles. They even offer a split toe sock to accommodate the toe strap. Leave it to Moab to turn footwear into a conversation starter.
Our second national park was Canyonlands, just a short drive from Arches. I’ll admit, I had low expectations at first. But I’ve learned never to underestimate a national park. We stopped at the visitor center, then crossed the road to an overlook, and suddenly, I was speechless, grounded to the spot, unable to move. Miles upon miles of canyons unfolded before me in jaw-dropping vistas. I felt small compared to its vastness, but equally humbled and grateful.
My favorite hike of the entire trip and maybe my favorite ever was the White Rim Overlook Trail. It follows the rim of the canyon and offers breathtaking views the entire way. It had everything: beauty, danger, solitude, and reverence. I didn’t want it to end.
And it doesn’t have to—not just yet.
This is only the beginning of our journey through the Southwest. From here, we continue deeper into the canyons and mesas, tribal lands and ancient ruins, hidden gems and legendary vistas. Glacier may have been my first love, but the Southwest has claimed a big piece of my heart.
To be continued…
Rhonda S. Kelley, Executive Director, Juniata River Valley Chamber of Commerce.