A Piece of My Heart: Discovering Lisbon
I’ll be honest with you. I feel a little overwhelmed by the task of putting this experience into words. I fear I won’t be able to capture the beauty, history and emotion of the journey with the accuracy it deserves. But here goes!
Our group of ten flew first to Lisbon, where our adventure began. We stayed in a beautiful historic building within walking distance of many of the city’s iconic sights. We each had our own rooms, but one of my favorite parts of the experience was the time we spent together in the common areas, laughing, reading books and recapping the day’s adventures. Just outside our windows, we could hear the conversations of people strolling along the narrow street below. There was something wonderfully authentic about it. For a little while, we didn’t feel like tourists visiting Lisbon; we felt as though we had become part of the city.
Our days were filled with sightseeing, from the stately cathedrals and historic landmarks to cafés and bakeries chocked full of delicious pastries. We visited Lisbon Cathedral, whose origins date to the 12th century, explored St. George’s Castle, with its history stretching back to the early medieval period, skipped down pink street with the colorful umbrella canopy overhead, and admired the famous Rua Augusta Arch. Everywhere we turned, there seemed to be another piece of history waiting to be discovered.
And then, of course, there were the pastries! Portugal is famous for its pastel de nata, a small custard tart with a flaky, crisp crust and a custard filling topped with a beautifully caramelized top. They are best eaten while still warm, with a sprinkle of cinnamon. We had so much fun hopping from café to café, sampling these little goodies and attempting to determine for ourselves who made the best. Our favorite turned out to be Confeitaria Nacional, one of Lisbon’s historic pastry shops, which opened its doors in 1829.
Everyone warned us that Lisbon was hilly, and they certainly weren’t exaggerating! The reward for all that climbing, however, was a series of breathtaking views. Around every corner, or perhaps I should say at the top of every hill, another spectacular vista appeared, with what appeared to be endless rows of terracotta rooftops stretching across the city and brightly painted buildings adding splashes of color to the landscape.
Speaking of color, that brings me to another of Lisbon’s treasures: its tilework. Many building façades are decorated with colorful tiles, some featuring intricate geometric patterns and others depicting elaborate scenes. The beauty of Lisbon isn’t limited to its buildings, either. Lisbon’s streets and sidewalks are decorated with beautiful mosaic patterns made from small cubes of limestone and basalt, often arranged in intricate black-and-white designs. The variety of shapes and patterns was beautiful. I will say, though, that these beautiful sidewalks can make walking a bit tenuous in places. My sneakers quickly became my very best friends as I navigated the uneven surfaces and steep streets.
Our next adventure took us on a train ride to Sintra, just about 40 minutes from Lisbon. There, high in the Sintra Mountains overlooking the town, stands the iconic Pena Palace. With its bright colors, whimsical towers and mixture of architectural styles, the palace looks as though it belongs in a fairy tale.
The site was once home to a monastery that was severely damaged in the devastating earthquake of 1755. Years later, King Ferdinand II purchased the property and transformed the site into a magnificent royal summer home. The palace is a hodgepodge of architectural styles, and exploring its many rooms, terraces and passageways was great fun. It is one of those places that makes you feel as though you have stepped into another world.
That brings me to a chapter of Portugal’s history that I knew very little about before this trip: the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755. I had heard it mentioned but had no idea of the vast devastation it caused. It struck on November 1, All Saints’ Day, when many people were attending mass, and the earthquake leveled buildings within seconds, killing tens of thousands. The devastation did not end there, soon fires spread throughout the city, followed by a tsunami.
It is difficult to imagine the terror of that day. In a matter of moments, this city, with all its ancient history, was changed forever. Knowing what Lisbon endured makes its beauty today even more incredible. Its ornate buildings, historic streets, and colorful neighborhoods tell a story not only of tragedy, but also of the people’s determination to rebuild and carry on.
During our visit, I stopped at Livraria Bertrand, the world’s oldest operating bookstore, which opened in 1732. Naturally, I couldn’t leave without purchasing a book. I chose one about the earthquake and have been reading a little each evening, continuing to learn about the lives lost and devastating events of that day.
Lisbon had already given us so much: beautiful architecture, breathtaking views, delicious pastries, remarkable history and, most importantly, memories made together as a family. Yet our Portuguese adventure was only halfway over. Next, we would travel north to Porto, a city with its own distinctive character, history and unexpected surprises waiting to be discovered. If Lisbon had already claimed a piece of my heart, I had a feeling Portugal wasn’t finished with me yet.
Stay tuned for Part Two, as our adventure continues in Porto.
Rhonda S. Kelley, Executive Director, Juniata River Valley Chamber of Commerce